What is Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR)?
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a mouthful of an innovative ingredient that has been gaining popularity as a Vitamin A derivative that is capable of binding directly to retinoid receptors in the skin.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate(HPR) is A new generation of retinoic acid esterification. Unlike other retinoic acid derivatives, Retinypinacolone Retinoate can act directly without conversion. The principle is similar to all-trans acid (Tretinoin). Compared with retinoic acid, the irritant of hydroxyacetone retinoate is much less. It is safer to use around the eyes, and the penetration rate is also better.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate(HPR) is a derivative of retinol, which can be directly combined with retinoic acid receptor (RARs). It has the function of regulating epidermal and cuticle metabolism, anti-aging, reducing sebum spill, fading epidermal pigment, preventing skin aging, treating acne, whitening and lightening spots, etc. In order to ensure the powerful effect of retinoic acid at the same time greatly reduce its irritation, mainly used for anti-aging wrinkling and prevent acne recurrence.
What are the special features of HPR
(1)Very high stability
(2)Effectively improve skin roughness, improve skin luster
(3)Obvious whitening, fade age spots, color spots effect
(4)Repair light damage to skin
(5)The stability and bioavailability of the activity were greatly improved
(6)It can improve the stability of other active substances in the product and promote absorption
(7)Due to the direct action of super VA, all the effects are faster than the traditional retinol effect. Anti-wrinkle effect in 14 days.
What products can HPR be added to?
(1)Anti-aging products: Promote collagen synthesis in the dermis, prevent collagen degradation too fast, and an improvement in fine lines can be observed within a week.
(2)Whitening products: inhibit tyrosinase, promote metabolism, and accelerate the disappearance of melanin, literature shows that it is equally effective to treat acne skin with VC.
(3)Acne products: not only can reduce acne, but also reduce oil secretion, dilute the pigmentation left over from acne.
(4)Sunscreen products: Inhibit the enhancement of MMP activity caused by ultraviolet rays, protect elastic fibrin and dermal collagen, and improve wrinkles and fine lines caused by UV irradiation.
(5)Repair products: Promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the body, reduce skin TEWL, promote keratinocyte activity, increase the thickness of the epidermis, and make the epidermis stronger.
How does it work within the skin and how should I use it?
HPR can directly bind to retinoid receptors within the skin although it’s a modified ester form of retinoic acid. This sets off a chain reaction that results in new cells being created including essential ones that go into creating collagen and elastin fibers. It also helps stimulate cell turnover. The underlying network of collagen and elastin fibers and other essential cells within the dermis becomes thicker, replete with healthy, living cells just like younger skin. It does this with significantly less irritation than the equivalent concentration of retinol and better potency than other Vitamin A analogs like retinol esters like retinyl palmitate.
(1)When making products containing HPR:
Add at low temperature stage, recommended dosage: 0.5-5.0%. The optimal pH range of the system is 5.0-6.3, the finished product should be protected from direct sunlight (using opaque packaging), and it is recommended to add UV absorbent to the day care products.
For specific examples, for essence/cream/mask, etc., the recommended amount of addition is: 0.5-5.0%, and the temperature is added at a low temperature during the formulation process, and the temperature is preferably below 40 ° C.
(2)When using finished products containing HPR:
You would therefore use a product featuring HPR as an alternative to either retinol, retinal or even retinoic acid. In short, you should pick one form and use it rather than trying to use multiple versions and you should definitely not try to layer them. We generally recommend trying HPR starting 1-2x per week and then increasing use to up to 1x daily depending on how you tolerate it. As with any Vitamin A derivative, you want to walk the line of stimulating a response in the skin without stripping or damaging your skin barrier.
We recommend using a pea sized amount for the entire face as your last step in your skincare routine at night. Do night apply any other product over top. This product has a characteristic bright yellow colour that is a positive sign of potency and not a sign of oxidation (as is the case with retinol). The product should be applied in a thin layer, if your skin looks yellow after application, this is simply a sign that you applied too much. This product is fragrance-free.
What is the difference between Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) and Granactive Retinoid?
This is a huge source of confusion for consumers and one of our most frequently asked questions. Granactive Retinoid is a raw material that is a blend of ingredients.This raw material is a blend of two ingredients: it contains 90% of a solvent known as dimethyl isosorbide and 10% of the active ingredient Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR).HPR is a single ingredient with 98% content.
The confusion between the two stems from a marketing choice of one of the biggest skincare companies in the world, The Ordinary. The brand The Ordinary launched their Granactive Emulsion products featuring Granactive Retinoid at 2% and 5% respectively. It’s rare for brands to disclose on the label the name of the blend of raw materials, let alone name their products after them. However, due to the popularity of The Ordinary products, consumers began identifying the active by the name Granactive Retinoid and not by Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. This caused further confusion because 5% Granactive Retinoate means that the product contains only .5% Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate because it’s a blend of ingredients, not just the pure active on its own. As a further example, a 2% concentration of Granactive Retinoid equals a .2% concentration of active Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. At the end of the day, the blend of ingredients of which 90% is a solvent, is not what is making a difference to the customer’s skin. It’s the active concentration of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, it makes more sense to refer to the product by its active ingredient name rather than the trade name of the blend.
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