What is Pro-Xylane?
Pro-Xylane is a xylose derivative with anti-aging effect, and its INCI name is: hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranol.
Pro-Xylane was originally developed and created by L’Oréal Research and Innovation as a proprietary raw material, and is the raw material produced in its own factory.
Pro-Xylane is a sugar-molecule derived from the beech wood tree utilizing green chemistry. It functions, in vitro, by stimulating the production of proteoglycans, a water-absorbing molecule in human reconstructed skin. Higher levels of proteoglycans within the reconstructed skin’s extracellular matrix correlate to increase skin-elasticity and firmness. In cosmetics, pro-xylane products are frequently incorporated into anti-aging lotions and creams to counterbalance signs of aging (i.e., fine lines and wrinkles).
It's an ingredient derived from xylose. Xylose exists in large quantities in beech trees and has the ability to promote the production of glucosaminoglucosan (GAGs). As a boserin extracted from beech trees, its role is similar to that of xylose.
What effect does Pro-Xylane have?
Activate mucopolysaccharide synthesis:
This high-tech ingredient, based on bionic principles, is made from a sugar called xylose that activates the synthesis of mucopolysaccharides (GAGs). There are a lot of mucopolysaccharides in the extracellular matrix (ECM) of our skin, most of which are carbohydrate polymers (GAG) composed of uronic acid and aminoacer. These mucopolysaccharides play a very important role in the skin, because mucopolysaccharides can absorb moisture and prevent skin moisture loss. And because mucopolysaccharides absorb a lot of water, they can form a structure that can be thought of as a colloidal body composed of water. At the same time, the absorptive ability of the molecular structure of these protein-mucoglycan GAGs makes the matrix network structure more elastic, which helps to improve the cell firmness and enhance the elasticity of the skin. These are important factors that affect the elasticity and texture of the skin
Stimulates the production of aminoglucans in the skin:
Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranotriol is a glycoprotein compound that stimulates the production of GAGs in the skin. GAGs is the main component of extracellular matrix, and hyaluronic acid is one of the main components of GAGs. Hyaluronic acid has a strong ability to absorb water and store water. When injected into the dermis, it can achieve the effect of filling and moisturizing skin, and the skin is full and elastic. Hyaluronic acid is also commonly used to fill depressed areas of the skin, including wrinkles. In terms of skin structure, GAGS mainly consist of collagen, elastin and extracellular matrix (including GAGs) in the dermis of skin.
According to L 'Oreal Group's experimental tests and human experiments, it has been confirmed that Pro-Xylane has the effect of promoting GAGs, more precisely the effect of interstromal cells (ECM); It is the link between cell matrix and cells, the bridge of skin density and firmness.
The efficacy of Pro-Xylane was first demonstrated in in vitro cell experiments, which showed that it promotes the formation of intercellular mucosaccharides, thereby rebuilding the cell structure, enhancing the connectivity between the dermis and the epidermis, and improving the binding ability of the dermis and the epidermis. Double-blind clinical trials were done in two groups of menopausal women to verify the actual skin care effects: one group used a cream containing bose, and the other group served as a blank group. Age spots, dryness, skin elasticity and wrinkles were evaluated, and the test results showed that the group using Pro-Xylane products outperformed the blank group in all aspects of the application area.
In addition, the studies of skin detection samples in the two groups of experiments also showed that the expression of GAGs in tissues treated with active substances of Pro-Xylane was stronger than that in the parts without Pro-Xylane, especially in the tissues with wrinkles, the expression was weak and the content of GAGs was low.
Classification of Pro-Xylane
Pro-Xylane is a chiral compound with four different configurations: βS configuration, βR configuration, a,S configuration, and A,R configuration.
At present,the Pro-Xylane sold on the market is mainly a mixture of βS configuration and R configuration, and the appearance of the product has two different kinds of paste liquid and powder
The difference between the two is:
Paste liquid Pro-Xylane: The proportion of S configuration to R configuration is between 50%:50% to 70%:30%.
Powder Pro-Xylane:
The proportion of S configuration and R configuration is :90%:10%.
How to identify "true" Pro-Xylane!
Not all "hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranol" can be called Pro-Xylane!
In fact, precisely speaking, L 'Oreal's "Pro-Xylane" can only be called Pro-Xylane, and the others can only be called "hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranol". This name is the patent name of L 'Oreal research and development of Pro-Xylane, it is in multiple combinations of bosin to screen out the best effect on the skin of a group, is its institution is unique, the effect is also the best, L 'Oreal also made a synthetic process patent application.
* Three elements to determine true Pro-Xylane!
According to industry professionals and L 'Oreal patent application data, the "true" Pro-Xylane is summarized as follows: S-type, isomer distribution: between 50/50-70/30, double peaks.
In the patent "New C-glycoside Derivatives and their Cosmetic Uses", L 'Oreal clearly states that the [β, S] configuration is the dominant configuration, and its biological activity is much greater than the mixture of [a, S] and [β, R] configurations. L 'Oreal Bossin is really this structure, the industry commonly known as: Type S.
* Pro-Xylane isomer distribution :50/50-70/30, double peaks:
Industry experts conducted HPLC tests of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in L 'Oreal's Pro-Xylane products, and the results showed that the optimal diastereoisomer ratio was approximately 50/50-70/30; Twin peaks.
Note: Double-peak means that when using a chromatograph, two peaks will appear when detecting components.
The key points of Pro-Xylane application
When the production process is completed, the pure product just out of the oven is a white solid, but because it is a xylose derivative, easy to absorb moisture, contact the air for a few seconds will absorb moisture into a light yellow to yellow viscous liquid similar to syrup, so in application, we generally recommend that the content of 10%, 30%, 50% alcohol solution, For ease of use.
In the formulation application, as a derivative of xylose family, moisturizing property is naturally its necessary business ability. When the pure product is added too much, attention should be paid to the impact on the skin feeling of the formula. If the addition amount is too high (more than 10%), it may be necessary to reduce the amount of other moisturizers in the formula to reduce the viscosity of the formula.
3. The influence of PH on the formula system: Basically no impact, the normal Pro-Xylane PH during production will be controlled at about 6-8, the pH of the whole system can be designed according to the formula, such as the system with carbomer, and with Pro-Xylane, the final PH feels high, at this time in the neutralization of carbomer, less alkali can be added, overall in the application of Pro-Xylane as an ordinary neutral raw material can be.
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